Contrary to Canon, notably on its Ixus 800 IS, Fuji has still not added mechanical stabilization to its camera. This manufacturer instead concentrated on noise control with increases in sensitivity, to which more experienced photographers are more concerned.
Therefore, in equal (difficult) conditions the Canon uses a combination of 400 ISO / exposure time of 1/10 second, while the Fuji functions with 1600 ISO and 1/34 s. 400 versus 1600 ISO means the amount of noise should be a lot less with one. But no, the advantage goes to Fuji whose noise at 1600 is quite close to the Canon at 400 ISO. As for exposure time: there is 1/10 s on one side – if the subject moves it will be blurry as stabilization only corrects the photographer’s movements – and 1/34 s on the other. A time that is three times shorter for Fuji assures more often that subjects will be sharp at the cost of a little more noise than Canon’s result at 400 ISO

Once you have mastered this camera, you can leave the stabilized mode (activated on the lower right side) to manually have a choice of sensitivities with activation of the burst mode in complement. You can then try photos not in 1600 ISO but in 800 ISO. The exposure time is mathematically cut in half as well as the amount of noise. For this reason the resulting photo is more precise as well as having less noise. Either way, you will want to take multiple shots. In the absence of stabilization, the F20 will only be sharp one in every three or four photos once we have set an exposure time between 1/15 s and 1/20 s.